Anti-Aging (Fighting Wrinkles)

 
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Why do I look older?

Skin aging is a normal process, but there is growing evidence that most of the signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots) are caused by sun damage from ultraviolet (UV) rays. Theoretically, if you protect your skin from birth with sunscreen and sun-protective clothing, you would minimize most of the skin issues that make us look old.

How do I get my skin looking younger?

While nothing on the market can reverse aging, you can minimize fine lines and wrinkles as well as age spots and sun damage. It is not complicated or costly (should be <$25/month), regardless of what you hear from friends or see on social media – they are usually trying to sell you something expensive. If you have large pores, read this page.

There are 3 simple steps: (1) Correction, (2) Moisturization, and (3) Sun protection.

What is a simple (the best) skin care routine?

BEDTIME ROUTINE:

MORNING ROUTINE:

Step 1 – Correction

The best family of medicines to improve aging skin is the retinoid family, including Retin-A (tretinoin), Tazorac (tazarotene), Differin (adapalene), and retinol. The first two are prescriptions, the last two are over-the-counter. Adapalene is better than retinol. Adapalene went from prescription to over-the-counter recently. See instructions below.

Steps for using adapalene:

 
 

  • At bedtime, dab the adapalene gel on the outside of your face (forehead, sideburns, chin). Massage it into the outside of your face first. Then, with the tiny bit left on your fingers, massage it over and around the nose, cheeks, and lips (these are more sensitive areas to peeling and redness).

    NOTE: This will dry you out. It dries everyone out! The goal is to minimize the red and flaky skin until your skin gets used to the adapalene after a few weeks.

    WARNING: Adapalene gel should not be used if you are pregnant. It is a retinoid, and retinoids can cause problems to growing babies in the womb.

  • Right after the adapalene gel goes on, apply a lot of moisturizing cream or ointment. My favorites are CeraVe cream, Vanicream cream, or Vaseline (#SlugLife). Put a thicker layer on your skin and go to bed shiny. It will soak into your skin while you sleep.

    NOTE: It takes a month to see results, so you have to stick with it for at least 30 days!

My face is peeling with adapalene. What do I do?

This is very common. Many people tell me that their skin is too sensitive for adapalene or that it made their skin peel. The real problem is that the right way to use adapalene is NOT how we naturally want to use it. Most people use too much adapalene or only put it only around the eyes and lips where they have fine lines or dark circles.

Follow the steps above to get even improvement over your entire face. It helps new skin grow more evenly and shrinks your pores, AND it takes a full month for your skin to grow out from the base layer, so it takes a full month to start seeing the results.

The problem is that adapalene starts drying out the skin and making the skin red right away, and you have to deal with this for a full month before you see any benefits. This first month is where most people give up and tell me that adapalene doesn’t work for them.

TIPS for proper adapalene use:

  1. Don’t use too much. A pea-size amount is enough for the whole face. Follow the steps above.

  2. Start on the outside of your face, not the center. If your skin is peeling at your hairline, it is much less bothersome than around your nose and lips.

  3. Moisturize! You cannot over-moisturize. You are trying to fight the dryness and peeling until your skin gets used to the adapalene.

  4. Stick with it! You need to do this every night for a month to see the benefits. And the benefits are great! It shrinks your pores, makes acne better, and helps with aging!

  5. If you can’t handle every night, then apply it every other night, just be consistent!

Step 2 – Moisturization

Expensive ≠ better results. In fact, my favorite facial moisturizer is straight Vaseline (100% petrolatum) nightly before bed. I know you don’t know me, but trust me and try a thin layer of Vaseline one night before bed. You will love how your face feels in the morning! My family and my staff have switched to Vaseline. Serums and toners, vitamins C and E, and all the newest gimmicks are not necessary. Your skin needs to feel loved, and love it by moisturizing it.

Step 3 – sun protection

There is a theory that most of our wrinkles are due to sun damage (UV damage, including tanning beds). This famous picture of a truck driver is a great example. If you really want younger-looking, healthier skin, you have to protect your skin from the sun every day, year-round. This has never been easier because every skincare company (Aveeno, Neutrogena, Elta MD, Cetaphil) has a daily facial moisturizer with SPF. It needs to be an SPF of 30 or higher. But, sun hats and shade are better than any sunscreen.

What else can I do for fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots?

Usually, the steps above can help most people see a noticeable improvement in the appearance of their skin. Sometimes prescription tretinoin (commonly known as Retin-A) is needed. For deeper, permanent wrinkles, Botox often provides the best results but needs to be done about every 3 months. I would do it for my forehead all the time if I wasn’t so cheap, so I stick with adapalene.

There are also chemical peels, microneedling, and lasers (especially IPL) that can make a huge difference, but these are all considered cosmetic and not covered by insurance. If you are considering cosmetic options, do NOT go cheap. Patients are sent regularly to me by local medi-spas when a complication happens with a cosmetic procedure, and the medi-spa doesn’t know how to treat it. This is especially true for those with darker skin tones – certain peels and lasers can make things worse. Look for a board-certified dermatologist in your area. If you are in or near Utah, see one of my excellent colleagues at the University of Utah.

DISCLAIMER

The statements expressed and content of this website are not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice. Readers should seek their own professional counsel for any medical condition or before starting or altering any treatment, exercise, or dietary plan. Please see our full disclaimer here.

 
Dermatology, Skin CareAaron Secrestadapalene, wrinkles, sun protection, antiaging, younger, wrinkle, smooth skin, UV damageComment